Four chains, up close
Chain types for necklaces
Cable, box, figaro and paperclip: how each one looks, how it wears, what it suits, and which to put under a nameplate or a pendant.
The four chains we make
Every made-to-order necklace in the catalog is offered in all four, chosen on the product page like the length.
Cable chain
The oldest and most common chain there is: a run of uniform oval or round links, each one joined to the next and turned ninety degrees from it, so the chain twists gently and catches light along its whole length.
- Look
- Quiet and fine: the least visible chain you can wear, which is exactly what a nameplate wants.
- Strength
- Good for its weight; every link is a closed loop. The finest gauges kink if pulled through a knot.
- Best with
- Nameplates, pendants and charms. The everyday chain.
In our catalog: Name necklaces
Box chain
Links folded into small squares and joined into a continuous, box-sectioned rope. Also called a Venetian chain. It reads as a single solid line rather than a row of links.
- Look
- Clean and modern. The flat faces flash as it moves, and the line stays straight.
- Strength
- Strong for its size, and resists kinking better than cable.
- Best with
- Pendants that need a straight line, wider nameplates, men's pieces.
In our catalog: Men's collection
Figaro chain
A curb-style chain (flat, interlocking links) with a rhythm: three short links followed by one elongated link, repeated. The name comes from the opera.
- Look
- Patterned and classic: a chain worn on purpose, not just a hanger.
- Strength
- Sturdy; flat links that lie together and are hard to kink. The long link is the one to check.
- Best with
- Worn alone, a small pendant or medallion, the classic men's necklace.
In our catalog: Men's collection
Paperclip chain
Elongated rectangular links with rounded ends, joined end to end, so the chain is open, flat and wide. The most fashionable of the four, and the one most often photographed on its own.
- Look
- Airy and deliberate. It sits flat and shows a lot of metal for its weight.
- Strength
- Moderate. The wide open links are comfortable but take the most knocks.
- Best with
- Layering, a bare neckline, one small charm hung from a link.
In our catalog: Paperclip necklaces
Which chain for a nameplate, which for a pendant
Under a nameplate
A nameplate is cut in the line of the chain: the chain enters one end of the name and leaves the other, so the chain is half of the design. It wants a chain that disappears: a fine cable, or a box chain under a wider plate. A figaro’s pattern fights the letters; a paperclip holds a name only as a charm hung from one link.
Under a pendant
A pendant hangs from a bail and slides on the chain, so the chain is free to be seen. Cable and box are the safe pairings; figaro carries a small medallion well; a paperclip with a single small charm is the current look.
Weight decides the rest: the heavier the pendant, the shorter and sturdier the chain.
Length matters as much as type: the size guide shows where each of the six lengths falls, and a pendant adds its own height below that.
The chain types compared
| Chain | The link | Look | Strength | Best with |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CableIn our catalog | Round links, each turned 90° | Fine, quiet, twists gently | Good for its weight; fine gauges kink | Nameplates, pendants |
| BoxIn our catalog | Square links in a box section | Smooth, straight, flashes on flat faces | Strong, resists kinking | Pendants, wide plates, men's |
| FigaroIn our catalog | Three short flat links, one long | Patterned, classic, visible | Sturdy; check the long link | Worn alone, small pendants, men's |
| PaperclipIn our catalog | Long open rectangles | Airy, flat, fashionable | Moderate; open links take knocks | Layering, a small charm |
| Rope | Twisted strands of small links | Dense spiral, heavy | Very strong | Heavy pendants, men's |
| Curb | Flat interlocking ovals | Flush, classic | Sturdy | Worn alone, men's |
| Snake | Tight rings around a core | Solid smooth line | Kinks if bent hard | Slider pendants |
| Wheat | Four braided twisted strands | Dense, subtly patterned | Very strong | Pendants, worn alone |
Cable
In our catalog- The link
- Round links, each turned 90°
- Look
- Fine, quiet, twists gently
- Strength
- Good for its weight; fine gauges kink
- Best with
- Nameplates, pendants
Box
In our catalog- The link
- Square links in a box section
- Look
- Smooth, straight, flashes on flat faces
- Strength
- Strong, resists kinking
- Best with
- Pendants, wide plates, men's
Figaro
In our catalog- The link
- Three short flat links, one long
- Look
- Patterned, classic, visible
- Strength
- Sturdy; check the long link
- Best with
- Worn alone, small pendants, men's
Paperclip
In our catalog- The link
- Long open rectangles
- Look
- Airy, flat, fashionable
- Strength
- Moderate; open links take knocks
- Best with
- Layering, a small charm
Rope
- The link
- Twisted strands of small links
- Look
- Dense spiral, heavy
- Strength
- Very strong
- Best with
- Heavy pendants, men's
Curb
- The link
- Flat interlocking ovals
- Look
- Flush, classic
- Strength
- Sturdy
- Best with
- Worn alone, men's
Snake
- The link
- Tight rings around a core
- Look
- Solid smooth line
- Strength
- Kinks if bent hard
- Best with
- Slider pendants
Wheat
- The link
- Four braided twisted strands
- Look
- Dense, subtly patterned
- Strength
- Very strong
- Best with
- Pendants, worn alone
Rope, curb, snake and wheat are general knowledge; the four marked are the chains in our catalog.
Chain styles for necklaces: the wider vocabulary
Buyers arrive with words from other shops. The ones you will meet most, so you can answer a message about them even though none of them is in our catalog.
General knowledge, not a description of our catalog.
- Rope chain
- Two or more strands of small links twisted around each other into a spiral that looks like rope. Heavy for its size and very strong; a classic men's chain and a classic for a substantial pendant.
- Curb chain
- Flat, interlocking oval links that lie flush against each other in a single plane. The figaro is a patterned curb. Sturdy, and the base of most men's chains.
- Snake chain
- Tightly fitted rings or plates around a core, so the chain is smooth, round and flexible with no visible links, a solid line. Elegant; kinks if it is bent hard.
- Wheat chain
- Four strands of oval, twisted links braided together so the chain looks like a head of wheat. Strong and dense, with a subtle pattern; also called spiga.
- Rolo chain
- Round links of a heavier, rounder wire than cable, each set at a right angle to the next. A sturdier cousin of the cable chain, and a favourite for hanging charms.
- Herringbone chain
- Flat, slanted links laid side by side in a V pattern, so the chain is a smooth, liquid ribbon of metal. Striking on its own; it creases if it is folded.
- Ball chain
- Small metal beads joined by short bars: the dog-tag chain. Casual and very hard to tangle.
- Singapore chain
- A twisted, diamond-cut chain that turns as it hangs and sparkles from every angle. Fine and light; a pendant chain.
Questions
What is the strongest chain type?
Of the four we make, box and figaro take daily wear best: short or flat links that lie against each other and resist kinking. Among chains in general, rope and wheat are the strongest for their size. A fine cable is strong for its weight but the easiest to kink, and a paperclip's wide open links are the ones that take knocks.
Which chain is best for a name necklace?
A cable chain. A nameplate is cut in the line of the chain and wants a chain that disappears behind it; a fine cable does exactly that. A box chain is the alternative for a wider plate. A paperclip chain suits a name only as a charm hung from one link.
Which chain types does the catalog offer?
Cable, box, figaro and paperclip. Every made-to-order necklace in the catalog is offered in all four, in gold, rose-gold or silver plating over brass or in 925 sterling silver, and in six lengths from 14 to 24 inches. The chain type is chosen on the product page like the length.
What is a paperclip chain?
A chain of long, open rectangular links joined end to end, so it looks like a row of paper clips. It sits flat and shows a lot of metal for its weight, which is why it is usually worn on its own or layered rather than under a heavy pendant.
Does the chain type change the price?
It can. Some chains take more metal or more work than others, and the product page shows the base price of each version (chain, metal and length), so you can set your retail price per version rather than per piece.
Sell these pieces under your name
925 sterling silver or plating over brass, four chains, six lengths. We make each piece to order and ship it from the US with your logo on the pouch and the card.
Start your jewelry brand- No monthly fee
- No minimums
- Pay after your customer pays